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After the first half of the 2013 review (published yesterday), here's the second part. 13 :00. Proclamation of IndependenceMaverick watchmakers and indie brands stole a good deal of the show not only in several exhibitions (SalonQP is the best example) but also at the so-called 'Oscars of Watchmaking' - with Habring2, Romain Gauthier, Ressence and Voutilainen joining more established brands in the honor roll of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve. To underline that proclamation of independence, three illustrious members of the AHCI (Association Horlogere des Creators Independants), Kari Voutilainen, Vianney Halter and Philippe Dufour, were hailed as heroes at the Grand Theatre. 14:00 Smartreplica watches, Smart MoveThe traditional watchmaking industry didn't seem too fazed by the advent of smartreplica watches - and rightly so, as the several models issued failed to become an acclaimed success. Apple hasn't come out with one of its own, yet… but there is one specific brand that shows potential: Hyetis launched the Crossbow, the self-proclaimed first premium smartwatch of the Swiss replica watch industry, boasting a Swiss made mechanical movement and basic software features (e-mail, SMS, social networking alerts, calendar, GPS positioning, MP3, remote control, climate data) plus gesture recognition device, infrared LED light emitter, optical zoom lens and more. High-end brands do not acknowledge any potential threat from such devices, dismissing smartreplica watches as mere gadgets and additional accessories. 15:00. Power to the PeopleOne way to finance a project is to gather a group of hopeful clients turned minor investors and ambassadors at the same time. The Hyetis smartwatch project gained momentum with pre-orders and one of several brands to emerge recently based on crowdfunding is Dubois & Fils, an old (founded in 1751) firm resurrected by Thomas Steinemann. Another example is A. Manzoni & Fils, with the launch of the Canopus moonphase calendar timepiece signed by Oliver Ike (creator of Ikepod) and designer Ilkka Suppanen. The Vicenterra GMT3, created by Vincent Plomb, had already shown the virtues of the process - crowdfunding definitely builds a powerful connection between a brand and its customers, and it's bound to have a major impact on independent watchmaking. GPHG 2013 GPHG 16:00. Boutique FrenzyEstablished replica watch brands are increasingly taking the boutique route. Following in the footsteps of Montblanc's highly successful worldwide network, TAG Heuer now has 180 boutiques in 57 countries and is scheduled to open 20 more in 2014. Many other replica watch brands - from the bigger to the niche ones - are heading the same way, in a commercial/cultural move that brings them closer to both the general public and the specific aficionado. I can even point out a couple of examples geographically close to me: even though struck by crisis, Portugal has in recent months seen the opening of Cartier (an impressive flagship store), A. Lange & S? hne and Panerai boutiques in Lisbon!? 17:00. Lyrical & Playful MechanicsVan Cleef & Arpels patented the expression 'Poetic Complications' and left us all a bit short for words to define an ongoing contemporary trend in high-end watchmaking: additional leisure complications allowing the wearer to interact with his timepiece, creating the illusion of governing and playing with time. A couple of brands not necessarily known for big mechanical complications head this particular feminine stylistic movement - Van Cleef & Arpels and Hermes. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht embodies it, through his specialty movement atelier Agenhor. On the men's side, Christophe Claret rules with its expensive big boys' toys: the Blackjack, the X-TREM-1 Pinball and the recently unveiled Poker watch. 18:00. Comeback Kid, Departing Doyens? In one of the most surprising comebacks of the year in the watchmaking industry, mercurial Jean-Fran? ois Ruchonnet - who triggered TAG Heuer's V4 saga a decade ago - became artistic director of the Franck Muller group after a couple of years spent in Monaco designing ultra-luxury yachts. It's good to see someone as creative and iconoclast as 'Jeff' back on the scene. But a pair of industry veterans made their exit: Bernard Fleury left Vulcain, and Jack Heuer decided to retire definitively - although he will be making his last public appearance for the launch of his biography in a few days' time. 19:00. Columbus Egg'Columbus Egg' is an expression that means a solution to a problem that seems simple or obvious after the fact. I've always been mystified as to why more chronographs don't use a central minutes chronograph hand (much easier to read), but I was happier in 2013 as the underused feature appeared in a growing list of timepieces - starting with the Panerai Luminor Regatta Flyback. SalonQP Kalory Agency 20:00. Oriental El DoradoChina has become the Swiss replica watch industry's El Dorado in recent years, but there were worrying signs in the beginning of the year. The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve showed, in November, how the problem was solved: China was a guest of honor and was given several mentions during the ceremony, following the signing of free-trade agreements and the partnership between the cities of Geneva and Beijing. What a paradox in seeing a nation responsible for hundreds of millions in damage due to counterfeiting transformed into a pillar of the economy. In 1995, the most highly populated country on the planet consumed a mere 1 per cent of luxury products in the world; in 2015, estimates indicate that figure will reach a staggering 30 per cent!? 21:00. Full Steam AheadThe first menace came in 2002; in 2009, Nicolas Hayek finally decided his group should no longer be a supermarket for any replica watch brand wanting movements or parts - and that announcement really did shake the industry. In a good way. The positive effects were on full display in 2013 (year of the final COMCO verdict confirming the Swatch Group intentions), with a growing number of brands/groups announcing industrial investments and unveiling new manufacture calibers. At the highest level, Vacheron Constantin inaugurated a 9,000m2 facility hosting 40 crafts at Le Brassus. TAG Heuer went from 0 to 100,000 (chronograph calibers manufactured) in five years, opening new premises in Chevenez. The crucial hairspring, until now almost an exclusive of Nivarox-FAR, is now being produced at Precision Engineering (H. Moser & Cie), Atokalpa, Concepto, Technotime and a few high-end brands such as Patek Philippe or A. Lange & S? hne. Sellita and Soprod have thus become even more relevant base-movement suppliers. 22:00. Sweet SwissnessAnd the debate goes on. 2013 was also marked by stern discussions regarding the Swissness issue. Is 60 per cent of the total price of a regular timepiece (an estimate that includes costs with research and development) enough to be considered a Swiss Made replica watch in the eyes of the most demanding consumer, even though most parts are made and assembled in China? Studies indicate the Swiss Made label makes any product worth 10 per cent more; the debate will continue, even though high-end manufactures remain untouched by that kind of controversy. 23:00. Pros & Cons of MagnetismAnother significant area that starred in 2013: magnetism, with three brands worth mentioning. Breguet employed magnetism to keep balance staff pivots in place in the Classique Chronometrie 7727. TAG Heuer used it in the conceptualization of the first-ever double magnetic tourbillon and the commercialization of the first ever magnet-driven 1/100th of a second chronograph (the Carrera MikroPendulumS Concept replica watch and the Carrera MikroPendulum Chronograph). Omega avoids it on the "world's first completely anti-magnetic watch" - the new Seamaster Aqua Terra - which, unlike the Rolex Milgauss or the IWC Ingenieur, doesn't shield the movement but is instead powered by a movement using non-ferrous materials, thus being capable of withstanding magnetic fields in excess of 15,000 Gauss. 24:00. replica watches of the YearYes, I intended to display here a list of selected timepieces that, for one reason or another, really caught my attention in 2013. But, after '23 hours' recapping the main trends (oh, did I mention blue was the color of the year? ), events and personalities I'm out of power reserve - my suggestion is you take your time and browse worldtempus. com to come up with your own conclusions. And then let us know via this link. Push release
Guilain Grenier
Hydrofoil trimaran sets a completely new world velocity report of fifty. seventeen knots (92. ninety one km/h)*, a wonderful reward from Alain Thebault, Thierry Lombard as well as their team for their new sponsor, Audemars Piguet (*) subject to ratification through the WSSRCBarely two months right after crossing the magical 50-knot threshold, the equal of breaking the sound barrier in aviation, l'Hydroptere confirmed its status because the planet's speediest flying trimaran, beating the world record at an average speed of fifty. seventeen knots* more than 1 nautical mile (ninety two. 91 km/h). Alain Thebault and his ten-man crew achieved this extraordinary feat at their pace foundation in Hyeres on Sunday, November 8th, in a 28-knot northwesterly wind. L'Hydroptere capped off a wonderful series of data posted within the Mediterranean and established a brand new benchmark inside the environment of sailing. "For 30 decades, enthusiasm and daring have carried me forward, but this victory really belongs to our indomitable, tight-knit team. The historic file of more than 50 knots about one particular nautical mile is strong due to the fact it lies for the frontier in between the dual capacities of the amazing traveling trimaran that may be both of those a high-speed craft and an ocean-going sailboat. Our staff now retains the highest two pace records in the earth, fifty one. 36 knots more than five hundred metres and fifty. seventeen knots above a person nautical mile*, and we can easily now focus on ocean sailing in 2010", commented Alain Thebault.
Guilain Grenier
This general performance is a excellent welcome reward for watchmaker Audemars Piguet, which experienced determined to affiliate itself using this type of outstanding adventure a few months in the past, coupled with private bankers Lombard Odier Darier Hentsch Cie. The union of Audemars Piguet and Lombard Odier Darier Hentsch Cie all around this challenge is nearly natural: as age-old spouse and children enterprises, they share lots of values, which include custom, excellence and skills. As entrepreneurs, they may have a heritage marked by a commitment to innovation, discovery and inspiring worries. "Our two companies share the identical foundations plus the very same passions. So it absolutely was logical for us to return collectively on this exceptional, unconventional and avant-garde venture that embodies exceptionally strong human and technological values", reported Thierry Lombard, an avid sailor that is eager on worries, sailing and know-how. Just before it became a task from the non-public bankers, whose founding yr - 1796 - is penned on the mainsail, l'Hydroptere was originally a personal undertaking. The 60-ft Hydroptere (in the Greek hydros, h2o, and ptera, wing), is actually a hydrofoil trimaran (the foils are literally underwater wings). It really is a smooth and stylish craft using a central hull plus a mast 28 metres higher, stabilised by two aspect floats separated within the hull by huge 24-metre carbon crossbeams constructed for the Airbus plant in Nantes. The progressive design and style of the boat, which flies on submerged wings, cleverly constructed outside of carbon and titanium, make it much faster, much more strong and lightweight (only six. five tonnes). The flight envelope from the prototype is consistently outlined and validated with a 3D flight simulator developed especially for this carbon chicken, which signifies the brand new technology of extreme sailing.
Guilain Grenier
Alain Thebault, designer and skipper of this Formula 1 from the seas, had always dreamt of constructing a ship fly. After 20 years of investigation and growth, the traveling boat is now a sturdy, strong craft thanks to your assist of 8 retired engineers from Dassault Aviation and EADS-Airbus who volunteered their time. l'Hydroptere is definitely the fantastic mix of cutting edge know-how, effectiveness and human journey. This unique undertaking was established by a crew of sailing buffs, engineers, experts and plane producers. In 2006, the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL) joined the staff and have become "Official Scientific Adviser" to aid in highly developed fields for instance aero-hydrodynamics, composite materials, structural behaviour and online video imaging. The entire world of sailing is actually a subject that Audemars Piguet is aware of perfectly. As early as 1985, the watchmaking business accompanied Peter Fehlmann, winner from the Whitbread. In 2000, it participated in its to start with America's Cup, with "Be hAPpy", and after that went on to take part while in the excellent Swiss victories within the thirty first and 32nd America's Cup. In 2008 and 2009, the watchmaker was together with Ladycat within the Final decision 35 circuit on Lake Geneva. Nowadays, it's turn out to be certainly one of two most important sponsors from the amazing entire world of l'Hydroptere. Audemars Piguet (Marketing and advertising) SAAudemars Piguet has authored quite possibly the most attractive pages during the history of watchmaking in its quest for technological innovation, daring and excellence, ceaselessly pushing again the limits on the achievable, a philosophy shared by l'Hydroptere. Like Audemars Piguet, which could boast several horological performances together with a a lot of environment firsts like the generation in 1972 in the legendary Royal Oak, the main luxurious steel watch; or maybe the 2006 start in the new high-performance, lubricant-free Audemars Piguet escapement, l'Hydroptere also has a prolonged listing of achievements to its credit rating. On Friday September 4th 2009, in Hyeres, France, Alain Thebault and his outstanding ten-man crew established two outright sailing velocity entire world information: above 500 metres, at an average speed of 51. 36 knots (ninety five. 118 km/h) and around a person nautical mile (1,852 m) at a mean of 48. 74 knots (ninety. 266 km/h). These records ended up ratified via the Planet Sailing Pace File Council, the formal keeper of all data pertaining to sailing. On November 8th, 2009, l'Hydroptere as soon as again designed record by environment a brand new report: a median velocity of fifty. seventeen knots, equal to 92. ninety one km/h, more than just one nautical mile* using a peak at fifty five. five knots (102. 78 km/h). Even if all records are made to become broken, this one particular are going to be incredibly challenging to match over that distance. "Thanks to this historic double report, l'Hydroptere is verified given that the swiftest sailcraft on the planet. This outstanding overall performance is a tribute to your function of the identified and professional group, which created and carried out innovative and modern alternatives. We can easily fully relate to this incredible problem, that is completely in keeping with the groundbreaking and adventurous spirit of our model," reported Philippe Merk, CEO of Audemars Piguet. Nevertheless the human and sporting adventure won't prevent there. Audemars Piguet and Lombard Odier are also sponsoring l'Hydroptere. ch, that will choose towards the waters of Lake Geneva, Switzerland, in summer months 2010. It'll serve as being a laboratory as well as a believe tank for that formidable Hydroptere Maxi venture, the last word goal of which is to sail spherical the whole world in 40 times, therefore pursuing the aspiration of Jules Verne. "This good human and technological adventure is backed nowadays by two prestigious corporations that solidify our roots. The arrival of Audemars Piguet along with non-public bankers Lombard Odier moves me deeply. This solid support is really a fantastic motivational drive for me as well as staff. Within an ongoing humble loved ones spirit, our ambition is currently to unfurl our wings on the open seas, collectively and close to the earth," concludes Alain Thebault.