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WORLDTEMPUS? -? 25 January 2013Yiah Chan Peter Speake-Marin? Yiah Chan? While visiting Peter Speake-Marin at Geneva Time Exhibition and talking to him about some of his more recent releases (Spirit, Resilience, Renaissance), one thing shone through - a certainty of purpose and direction that boasts nods to past models but with clear differences that are the result of much thought and reassessment of his models, including the input of his customers and admirers. In a way, these three models describe three stages of his watchmaking life, if you think of the model names in this order. The alignment of models and movements is clearly defined, and the move toward a more accessible case size and price point, not to mention the popularity of the much more casual Spirit, is something that the watchmaker feels confident about. Speake-Marin SpiritThe "spirit of Sprit," if you will, is engraved on the back: "fight, love, persevere. " As Speake-Marin puts it, it sums up what he has learnt from being a watchmaker, as well as from life, with the slogan representing the human spirit. The Spirit's black dial is a deep color created by black resin. The Super-LumiNova is applied by hand, with each mold used only the once. It is not possible to see it clearly unless you look at it under a loupe, but there is in fact a layered aspect to this watch. The tramlines in Super-LumiNova are slightly under the dial, the Roman numerals are 0. 2 mm above surface, and the dots are 0. 3mm above surface. At 7,000 Swiss francs, this has been the least expensive of any of his replica watches, and its price, size and pilot-style look have made it his best-selling replica watch to this point. Deliveries will start in April. Spirit represents the new entry-level price point for Speake-Marin? Yiah Chan? The Resilience, with its very classic oven-fired enamel dial and iconic Speake-Marin Piccadilly case design, describes the staying power of what arguably became his signature look. The purity of the dial design with its blue-steeled hands and Roman numerals has been enduring and resilient for Speake-Marin, with the current version powered by his Eros 2 caliber. Resilience is as classically Piccadilly as they come today? Yiah Chan? New direction, new energyAnd after perseverance through resilience comes Renaissance, the open-dialed, tourbillon minute-repeater that shows off all of this talented watchmaker's skills and knowledge to a far more technically complex way than the past, with his signature Foundation hands and topping tool motif, a Piccadilly case and the personal touch of each movement being decorated with a different hand-engraved design so that each piece is unique. Each Renaissance is a unique piece thanks to engravings? Yiah Chan Some time has passed since I last spoke to Speake-Marin about his replica watches. Each time has been quite a different stage, in terms of the direction of his collection, but the thing that struck me the most this time was that, above all, the replica watches that he was showing at GTE, the core of his current collection, are about as personal as you can get with a watch; they speak of the highs and lows that have taken him to this point in his watchmaking life - the model names are the embodiment of his journey. READ OUR "WATCHMAKING 2013" DOSSIER By Meor Amri Meor Ayob
This can be the NOMOS Glashütte Tangomat GMT. This check out arrives inside a 40 mm by 11 mm chrome steel case which has a domed sapphire and sapphire crystal caseback. The hour, minute and tiny next fingers are in blued steel. The hour markers are printed with 2, four, 8, ten and twelve marked by Arabic numerals. A red arrow at three o'clock points to your present residence time, that's represented in 24-hour military format.
Powered along with the in-house Xi motion, this particular motor has 26 jewels plus a electrical power reserve of 42-hours. Capable of hacking (a stop seconds mechanism), it's got bidirectional winding rotor, incabloc shock safety, blue screws and rhodium-plated motion blue screws, rhodium-plated movement surfaces. Other cosmetics, this kind of as, Glashütte ribbing and? NOMOS perlage in black gold, ratchet and duplex wheel with Glashütte sunburst along with a skeletonized rotor had been also added. Lug width is 20 mm.
I love the simplicity and almost sterile dial. Acquiring enough time zone and GMT window reverse of each and every other with the three o'clock (GMT) and also the 9 o'clock (time zone) positions helps make it well balanced. Coupled together with the sub-dial for your 2nd hand, the dial appears to be balanced.
The transparent situation again is far more outstanding. The sprucing operate over the skeletonized rotor is a sight to behold.
This really is genuinely an excellent piece.