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S'il est un objet que l'on qualifie volontiers de vivant, c'est bien la montre. Ne parle-t-on pas de son visage pour evoquer le cadran, d'organes pour designer les rouages, du bracelet qui etreint le poignet, des oscillations du ressort de barillet comme autant de pulsations donnant vie a la montre ou encore de chant cristallin quand vibrent les timbres de la repetition minutes? Et voila que, soudain, le terme de montre squelette sonne tout autrement. Aussit? t, l'image d'une cage thoracique denuee de chair, au travers de laquelle se laisse entrevoir le coeur anime de battements, s'impose. Mais avec quelle noblesse et quelle beaute! Transposee au monde exclusif de la haute horlogerie, cette image hisse l'artisan sachant ma? triser l'art du squelettage au niveau d'etre superieur, ayant le pouvoir de devoiler la vie dans sa in addition intime et additionally parfaite expression. Une sorte de magicien a l'oeil de lynx et aux doigts de fee, que peu de maisons possedent.
KingSquare? pour dame, en or gris pavee de diamants, cadran squelette avec minuterie du rehaut ponctuee de rubis, sur bracelet satin rouge. Mouvement mecanique a remontage manuel avec tourbillon volant a 7 h, estampe du Poin? on de Geneve. Edition limitee a 28 exemplaires.
S. A. W. EasyDiver? en titane, cadran squelette, sur bracelet caoutchouc. Mouvement mecanique a remontage manuel avec tourbillon volant a 7 h, estampe du Poin? on de Geneve. Etanche a three hundred metres. Version limitee a 280 exemplaires.
KingSquare? pour homme, en titane, cadran squelette avec minuterie du rehaut ponctuee de rubis, sur bracelet caoutchouc. Mouvement mecanique a remontage manuel avec tourbillon volant a 7 h, estampe du Poin? on de Geneve. Version limitee a 280 exemplaires. Sculpture contemporaine Roger Dubuis fait partie de ces privilegies. Le squelettage est meme devenu une de ses specialites. Comme l'a encore prouve l'edition 2008 du SIHH où trois nouveaux modeles du genre signes Roger Dubuis ont ete presentes: deux KingSquare? , une pour homme, l'autre pour dame, et une S. A. W. EasyDiver?. Un trio de montres a tourbillon volant, toutes equipees d'un mouvement mecanique a remontage manuel estampe du Poin? on de Geneve, qui match sensation. Notamment par le traitement resolument contemporain de ce common de la custom horlogere. A commencer par la KingSquare? homme, dont le noircissement du mouvement par traitement rhodium accentue le c? te architectural, epure et rigoureusement urbain du modele. Misant sur un tout autre registre, celui de l'amour, la model feminine, qui multiplie les coeurs ajoures et entrelaces, egalement noircis, n'en perd pas pour autant ni de son caractere, ni de sa modernite. L'originalite et la poesie en plus. Auto outre le fait que ce soit les coeurs qui tiennent les differents organes de la montre, deux d'entre eux sont teintes de rouge, pour mieux symboliser l'amour entre deux etres. Un sentiment encore chic par le rouge du bracelet, les rubis de la minuterie et les 432 diamants sertis sur la bo? te et la couronne. Quant a la nouvelle EasyDiver? , qui garde l'idee lancee en 2004 de coupler tourbillon et montre de plongee, elle brille par sa virilite. Mais tout en subtilite. Grace au mariage de la transparence obtenue par le squelettage au c? te tres massif du bo? tier titane et du bracelet caoutchouc. Il fallait oser. Resultat: une montre a la fois urbaine, sportive, elegante et approach. Et la encore, le traitement rhodium produit son petit effet. D'autant qu'ici, in addition problem de romantisme. Les lignes sont franches, dures, sans compromis. Comme quoi, l'art du squelettage change… et c'est tant mieux! Sylvie Guerreiro TRIBUNE DES ARTS - NOVEMBRE 2008 - No. 366 Martin Braun's background reads like almost every other record of talented watchmakers while in the existing post-quartz crisis period. This learn watchmaker born in Karlsruhe, from the southwestern corner of Germany, completed the necessities to become a learn watchmaker in 1991. Focusing at the outset on restoration, he had the fantastic plan for his first
progressive complication and also the observe that was to eventually bring on his breakthrough within the ensuing yrs.
The first plans for his Eos model originate in 1995 when Braun commenced in earnest to understand the venture, but many thanks to some of the sticky elements in calculating the sunrise/sunset and equation of your time displays, it took pretty much six extra several years to have the enjoy as many as his standards. The trusted foundation caliber ETA 2892-A2 was modified by Martin Braun's personal module construction to make his strange equation of your time shows probable, even though it proved being very a obstacle for him to fit the display—which he launched the subsequent year—into precisely the same volume of room.
Then arrived the big information of 2007: Braun had not simply migrated to Switzerland with his workshop, but he had been taken about by just one in the massive names of watchmaking. The Franck Muller team had procured fifty one % of his enterprise. Sad to say, the financial disaster beginning in 2008 wasn't type to the group, and Braun sold his remaining shares in 2009 and departed—leaving his name and his astronomical displays from the treatment of the Geneva-based team.
A re-start
Braun exhibited his dogged adore of his vocation by just starting off around. Initially, he set up a workshop to start engaged on the various other movement concepts inside his lively mind. He named his workshop MHO (Manufacture Horlogere Obwalden), and it now features inside a provider capability: a motion maker for the people seeking for high-quality, complicated movements.
Next, he established up buy his new brand, which he has christened Antoine Martin, combining the first names of Braun and his main trader. Final 12 months, Antoine Martin released its to start with timepiece, and it was a major a single: a perpetual calendar with a brand-new Braun-designed movement called Caliber AM 39. 001 boasting a lot of cool characteristics that it truly is not easy to inform the place to glance initial.
Initially off, Braun has modified the Swiss lever escapement and now phone calls his version the Higher Overall performance Escapement (HPE). By not being forced to compromise amongst effectivity and oil retention many thanks to the usage of silicon factors, the HPE offers additional success in accordance with him and doesn't need to have lubrication.
Braun has also changed the initially calculated angles from the escape wheel's impulse planes; modified the curved shape in the escape wheel teeth; reconfigured the pallets; and optimized the form on the silicon impulse pin to improve the power produce. The result of these modifications is a rise in amplitude from 300° to pretty much 330° in direct comparison to standard escapement style.
New and old
Braun was insistent that the caliber throw the spotlight on its most mechanically aesthetic part: the equilibrium. Considering that this era of watchmaking sees chiefly regular balances beating in the majority of replica watches at greater frequencies—and moreover hidden from view—Braun was insistent about creating an extra-large 17. 5 mm balance wheel beating at a languid 18,000 bph, whose most important raison d'être is stabilization of amplitude.
The stability itself is crafted in high-tech Quality five titanium for lightness. Boasting two minimal gold screws for high-quality adjustment, thereby freeing the balance spring from fantastic regulation by index, it is actually one particular of your most significant balances ever used in this style of escapement.
This huge manually wound motion with 6 days' power reserve and 60 jewels measures 39. 5 mm x 8 mm, thus it is only rational that its case even be a big a person. In fact, the rose or white gold case—which is usually readily available in black DLC-coated stainless steel—is not shy in a entire forty five mm in diameter. Its layout is really a mix of recent aesthetics that mix for making the perpetual calendar capabilities really legible and cleanse.
The initial addition to the young Antoine Martin brand, debuting this 12 months, is one thing that Braun has wished to structure and create for decades: his very own tourbillon. These days a standard in the luxurious view collection, this complicated addition into the escapement fantastically showcases a watchmaker's skill although it admittedly doesn't incorporate significantly into the real precision.
This timepiece is the logical development of our perpetual calendar and completes it completely, Braun describes with the new launch. Also, the idea was to combine the calendar and so existing a beautiful—even if technically demanding—dial.